Mulberry Pomegranate

Papoutsakia

Mama's recipes, Meat and 'kima'
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Eggplants are to my Greek family, what potatoes are to my Irish family; and this dish of slow cooked eggplant is a regular on our Greek family table.

Think eggplants plus Greek cuisine and you may invariably think of moussaka – delicious when homemade but sometimes a stodgy, oil-heavy weight at an average tourist taverna.

Maybe it’s because of this association that moussaka was a very rare feature in my mother in law Sophia’s kitchen. Instead eggplants featured in a variety of dishes, but everyone’s favourite (including Sophia’s) was ‘papoutaskaia’ meaning little shoes.

Little eggplant boats, filled with a tomato rich meat sauce and topped with a nutmeg-spiked bechamel sauce, the pieces seemingly intact but then turn into an almost succulent eggplant purée under your fork. All that will be left on your plate is a small drizzle of red-tinged olive oil, rich with eggplant and tomato flavours. Classic Greek comfort food – to which a simple green ‘marouli’ or lettuce salad with a sharp lemon dressing makes a good companion, with its crunchy contrast.

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Papoutsakia

Μελιτζάνες παπουτσάκια

Ingredients

  • 4-5 medium eggplants
  • 500 grams of minced veal & pork
  • 1 onion finely diced
  • 4 cloves of garlic finely minced
  • 500 grams of fresh grated tomato
  • 1 tbsp of tomato paste
  • 1 tsp ground allspice
  • 1 small bunch fresh parsley finely chopped
  • 1 tsp chilli puree
  • 100 ml dry white wine
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 1 egg white
  • ½ cup of water
  • 60 grams butter
  • 2 tbsp of plain wholemeal flour
  • 1 cup of lukewarm milk
  • Pinch of nutmeg
  • 100 grams of grated kefalotyri or pecorino cheese
  • panko breadcrumbs

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 180C.Cut the eggplants in half. Using a pairing knife score the around the inner flesh leaving a small border. Sprinkle with salt and leave to drain in a colander for 1-2 hours. Rinse, squeeze out any excess water and dry well.
  2. Fry the eggplant halves in a little olive oil. This is to soften the flesh. Fry each side on a medium heat for 5 mins. Once cooked place the eggplant halves on a pre oiled baking tray, that has been sprinkled with breadcrumbs.
  3. Pour a little olive oil in a medium sized pot and fry the onion and garlic until fragrant and almost starting to caramalise. Add the ground meat and break it up using a wooden spoon. Once the meat is browned add the white wine and allow the alcohol to cook off, then the grated tomatoes, tomato paste, chilli puree, spices, salt and pepper and the water. Bring to a boil and allow the sauce to simmer for 30 mins. When the sauce has cooked down and it becomes thick, it is ready. Stir through the fresh parsley.
  4. Whilst the sauce is simmering prepare the béchamel. Add the butter to a small pot. Once it melts add the flour and stir continuously for a few mins. Then slowly add the milk to the butter/flour ‘roux’ and stir continuously, creating a thick, smooth sauce. Add the nutmeg and cheese, stir to combine all and set aside.
  5. Fill the eggplant halves with the meat sauce. Top with béchamel and breadcrumbs, bake in the oven for 40 mins or until browned on top. Allow to cool a little before serving.
  6. Note: you can also use grey zucchini in the same dish, following the method above and add some peeled, par-boiled potatoes to the baking dish.

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