If there is a dish that will bring tears of joy to my husband’s eyes it is bakaliaros and skordalia. It’s the Greek version of Australian fish and chips and the first thing Kosta will order when he touches down in Greece. Kosta is not alone and this dish is so loved in Greece that it is enjoyed on two special occasions, Greek Independence Day (which is always on 25 March) and Palm Sunday. Usually, these two festival days fall during Greek Orthodox Lent. As they are such special occasions, the Greek Orthodox Church allows the consumption of fish, which is usually prohibited during the fasting period.
Kosta’s love of this dish stems from his early childhood. His mama, Sophia, is the master of bakaliaros and skordalia. The fish is always perfectly desalinated, not to salty but also not bland. The coating is always crispy and not oily. The fish is balanced by a creamy but zingy skordalia, made with plenty of garlic and a little water in which a piece of the cod has been poached. Whenever I eat this dish, when it has been prepared by Mama, I swear I can feel the warm tingle of an Ionian Sea breeze floating around us. It may sound like a cliche, but Islanders definitely have a natural affinity for cooking seafood.
Over a number of years, I have had a try at recreating this much loved dish. The first couple of years were a bit of a disaster. Hello soggy fish. However, by closely mirroring Sophia in the kitchen I finally found the right technique, which I am happy to share with you here. The secret is making sure the fish is perfectly dry and both it and the batter are completely chilled before hitting the very hot oil. You must also use good olive oil, it really imparts a particular flavour to this dish. Mama’s palate can detect a dodgy oil on first tasting. As she says, why go to all the bother of soaking and preparing the fish if you are just going to fry it in a bad olive oil? And a vegetable or other oil – don’t even go there!!
Bakaliaros
Ingredients
- 1 Large piece of dried salt cod
- 1 tea cup Rice flour
- 1 & 1/2 tea cups Spelt flour
- 1 tsp Baking powder
- 1 & 1/2 tea cups Greek beer
- 1 Egg beaten
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Extra virgin olive oil for frying
Instructions
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Rinse the fish under cold water and remove any bones. Soak in cold water, in a covered bowl in the fridge, for at least 36 hours changing out the water 4 times per day.
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Cut the fish into pieces, remove the skin and press between paper towels to remove any of the excess water. This step is important because if the fish is not completely dry it is going to become a soggy mess in the frying pan. Set aside on a plate, uncovered and keep in the fridge to remain chilled.
Make the batter:
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Add the flour and baking powder to a large bowl, mix well to combine. Using a whisk, slowly add the beer and egg until a thick batter forms. Place in the fridge for around 30 minutes to become very chilled.
Fry the fish:
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In a large frying pan, heat the oil over medium high heat (175C). Dredge the fish first in the rice flour, shaking of the excess and then dip in the batter and carefully place it in the hot oil. Make sure the oil is hot before adding the fish, otherwise you risk a soggy outcome.
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Fry the fish until golden brown on each side then remove and drain on paper towels. You can place the fish on a baking rack over a tray in very low, warm oven to keep it warm and crisp until ready to serve. Serve with the Skordalia and beetroot to salad or horta.
