Sophia recommends eating Horta, the Greek name for ‘wild’ greens at least once per week – more if you can. Different health complaints can call for different types of Horta and in differing amounts. Ma has a little collection of ‘botanical’ books, written of course in Greek – some old, some new – but all provide guidance on what greens and herbs should be eaten for specific aliments, or just general health. It is from these tomes, and the health segments on Greek radio and TV, that Ma will often sprout a pearl of wisdom. “You must eat one tomato every day…” or “don’t eat the seeds of the chilli, because they won’t digest in your stomach.”
This dish, Tsigariasta (Τσιγαριστα), means to braise or sautee a selection of wild greens in good Greek olive oil. It brings together much of Ma’s health wisdom, in one simple, delicious dish.The type of greens you can use really depends on what is around. Now that it is summer in Sydney, that means plenty of purslane (andrakla/ glystrida αντράκλα or γλυστρίδα) and amaranth (Vlita βλήτα). Given the abundance of juicy summer tomatoes, these are also added to the dish.
While tsigariasta is a dish that can stand on its own, Sophia often adds some seafood. This, as with all Greek food, always depends on what is in season – and looks best a the fishmonger. Sometimes a little octopus or kalamari will be added, but then there is my favourite – the addition of small vongole clams or Australian puppies.
I remember the first time Ma made this dish for me. I had called in for an afternoon visit and my niece and nephew were also spending some time with their Yiayia. Ma served the four of us pipping hot bowls of this dish, with homemade olives, feta and delicious rustic sourdough bread. It was such a joy to see two little ones, my niece and nephew, happily wolfing down this nutrient packed dish. I thought what sophisticated pallets they had for such young children, enjoying the vegetable bitterness of the wild greens. My nephew emptied his plate in seconds flat and happily asked for seconds.
Greens with clams (tsigarista me achivades)
Τσιγαριστά με αχιβάδες
Ingredients
- 2-3 Onions chopped (at least one red and one brown)
- 2-3 Leeks chopped finely
- 2 cloves Garlic
- 1 tsp Ma's chilli puree
- 1 kilo Greens 1 bunch of red amaranth, 1 bunch of purslane
- 1 tea cup Fresh tomatoes grated
- 1 tea cup Water
- 1/2 kg Small vongole clams or pippies
- Extra Virgin olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
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First, you must start by scrupulously washing your clams and wild greens, using only the tender leaves and stems. Discard any woody or tough stems, or any yellowing leaves.
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Boil a very large pan of unsalted water and tip the greens into it for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, chop the leeks, onions and garlic finely. In a separate pan, begin by sauteing the onion and leek in a lot of olive oil. When it’s golden, add the garlic and cook until it is fragrant.
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Next add the tomato, stirred well and then add the well drained cooked greens, together with the chilli to taste. You may want to add just a touch of water, so that the greens don't stick to the pan. Cover the pot and let it all simmer on a low heat for about 20-30 minutes. You want the tomato to meld with the olive oil, creating a thick sauce which coats the greens. Then, add the well cleaned clams and cover the pot again, simmer for a further 5-10 minutes until the clams open.
